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  1. #41
    PacNWVike's Avatar
    PacNWVike is offline Team Alumni
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "pack93z" wrote:
    Well here is where it started.. truck ran fine, good compression and power... however it started to act up after starting cold and running for a while, if you shut it off it would not restart until it cooled off for a while.. generally about 2 hours or so.. talked to a friend of my fathers and he stated it sounded like the module.. so replaced it and the truck ran great for about a month or so.. then started to do the same thing again..it has had a water leak seep around the intake and a buddy suggested to redo the head gaskets incase the truck is experiencing a vapor lock due to a bad head gasket.. hence the replacement of the all the gaskets from the heads up.. but I started the truck and ran it into the garage before pulling it apart..

    After we had it put back together, it popped right off but was running extremely rough, at that point I didn't have a timming light so we tried dialing in the timming and we choked it off.. from the point on it has not fired up again.. tonight it would fire for a couple of seconds, however according to the timing light we don't get a consistant spark while the plug are in the block.. so that is where we sit.. intermittant spark at all cyclinders but 2 and 8... they fire consistantly. I personally just don't understand why for instance one will fire for a while and then just suddenly start to fire irratically.. so here I sit lost trying to figure out what next to do next...
    The bold face statements are your clues.
    Did you reset the distributor shaft correctly after you pulled the heads?
    I suspect your firing problems are directly related to whatever you did when you changed the head gasket.
    The initial problems sound electrical in nature, but the fact you changed a module, it ran well for a while and then went bad again indicates there is a root cause frying the module.
    My .2 cents...
    Google for a mechanical forum that covers your make/model of truck and pose the questions to them.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
    Edmund Burke

  2. #42
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    well doing some research at work.........

    there is a plastic cover to the left of the distributor held on by 1 or 2 plastic wing nuts, under that is a 1 wire connector . this is used by the computer to advance and retard spark depending on sensor out put. disconnect this wire and see if your spark situation changes. if it does there is and issue with the computer that controls your spark, depending on your exact modle could be pcm or esc .

    also check for wobble in the distributor rotor while cranking , the distributor it self could be bad.

    and just for what the heck sake disconnect the knock sensor and see if your problem changes....

    genral consensis around the shop is that the distributor needs to be replaced . but do the other checks first....

    http://justlube.net/?page_id=44

  3. #43
    pack93z's Avatar
    pack93z is offline Team Alumni
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "fourdoorchevelle" wrote:
    well doing some research at work.........

    there is a plastic cover to the left of the distributor held on by 1 or 2 plastic wing nuts, under that is a 1 wire connector . this is used by the computer to advance and retard spark depending on sensor out put. disconnect this wire and see if your spark situation changes. if it does there is and issue with the computer that controls your spark, depending on your exact modle could be pcm or esc .

    also check for wobble in the distributor rotor while cranking , the distributor it self could be bad.

    and just for what the heck sake disconnect the knock sensor and see if your problem changes....

    genral consensis around the shop is that the distributor needs to be replaced . but do the other checks first....
    Yep we pulled the tan wire with a black stripe off last night and still the random spark.. first I heard of the Knock sensor.. I will try that one first.. tonight the order of attempts are new cap and rotor (cheap) if that fails, drop in a new distributor..

    So the only thing left in my limited knowledge if all those fail is the computer itself, correct?

    Thanks for the assistance.. after it fires.. I will share the root cause as I know it to be..

  4. #44
    pack93z's Avatar
    pack93z is offline Team Alumni
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "PacNWVike" wrote:
    The bold face statements are your clues.
    Did you reset the distributor shaft correctly after you pulled the heads?
    I suspect your firing problems are directly related to whatever you did when you changed the head gasket.
    The initial problems sound electrical in nature, but the fact you changed a module, it ran well for a while and then went bad again indicates there is a root cause frying the module.
    My .2 cents...
    Google for a mechanical forum that covers your make/model of truck and pose the questions to them.
    Yep, got a thread going there and reading a ton.. but to be honest, here has been the most helpful.. another reason I admire the site.. the posters here are some of the best.

  5. #45
    singersp's Avatar
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "PacNWVike" wrote:

    The bold face statements are your clues.
    Did you reset the distributor shaft correctly after you pulled the heads?
    I suspect your firing problems are directly related to whatever you did when you changed the head gasket.
    The initial problems sound electrical in nature, but the fact you changed a module, it ran well for a while and then went bad again indicates there is a root cause frying the module.
    My .2 cents...
    Google for a mechanical forum that covers your make/model of truck and pose the questions to them.
    Pulling the heads means new head gaskets. Is there possibly a head gasket leak whereas the oxygen sensors are getting false readings & telling the computer to advance/retard
    the spark or lean/richen the fuel mixture?

    "If at first you don't succeed, parachuting is not for you"

  6. #46
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "singersp" wrote:
    "PacNWVike" wrote:

    The bold face statements are your clues.
    Did you reset the distributor shaft correctly after you pulled the heads?
    I suspect your firing problems are directly related to whatever you did when you changed the head gasket.
    The initial problems sound electrical in nature, but the fact you changed a module, it ran well for a while and then went bad again indicates there is a root cause frying the module.
    My .2 cents...
    Google for a mechanical forum that covers your make/model of truck and pose the questions to them.
    Pulling the heads means new head gaskets. Is there possibly a head gasket leak whereas the oxygen sensors are getting false readings & telling the computer to advance/Challenged Hillybilly Lover

    the spark or lean/richen the fuel mixture?
    ummm . ... .

    it would effect the fuel to air ratio not the spark... so it would be too much fuel or not enough . wouldn't effect spark

    http://justlube.net/?page_id=44

  7. #47
    Marrdro's Avatar
    Marrdro is offline Beware My Spreadsheet, Bitches!
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    Man I love this site.

    ;D
    Many many thanks to my talented friend Jos for the new Sig.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/josdin00/Vikings/Marrdro_sig.jpg

  8. #48
    pack93z's Avatar
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    Dropping in a new distributor tonight.. damn expensive test.. but it seems to be the only thing left to try.. grabbing the BFH next... that will straighten anything out.
    ;D

    Gotta solve this first problem of lack of spark at the block.. then I can start to test if I did the rest of the job correctly. Still miffed a little that there is spark, however it may be weak, at the cap but not at the block..

    4DC .. the Knock senor did nothing to improve or harm the situation.. but it was worth a try.

  9. #49
    singersp's Avatar
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    "fourdoorchevelle" wrote:
    "singersp" wrote:
    "PacNWVike" wrote:

    The bold face statements are your clues.
    Did you reset the distributor shaft correctly after you pulled the heads?
    I suspect your firing problems are directly related to whatever you did when you changed the head gasket.
    The initial problems sound electrical in nature, but the fact you changed a module, it ran well for a while and then went bad again indicates there is a root cause frying the module.
    My .2 cents...
    Google for a mechanical forum that covers your make/model of truck and pose the questions to them.
    Pulling the heads means new head gaskets. Is there possibly a head gasket leak whereas the oxygen sensors are getting false readings & telling the computer to advance/Challenged Hillybilly Lover
    the spark or lean/richen the fuel mixture?
    ummm . ... .

    it would effect the fuel to air ratio not the spark... so it would be too much fuel or not enough . wouldn't effect spark
    But didn't you say all the plugs spark fine out of the block, but failed to fire once installed, except for #2 & #8? Isn't it possible then that they are sparking inside the block, but because of a bad fuel mixture there is no ignition?

    "If at first you don't succeed, parachuting is not for you"

  10. #50
    singersp's Avatar
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    Re: A Gearhead question...

    Are all the vacuum lines connected & in good shape?

    I had a Ford once that ran rougher than a cob & the code told me it was a bad EGR valve. After replacing it, I still had the same problem. I posted a question on that forum I gave you the link to & they pointed me to check the Vacuum lines for the idle air control.

    Sure enough that particular hose routed at a really sharp bend at the distributor & it had a crack in it right at the bend. A $0.15 piece of hose solved the problem.

    "If at first you don't succeed, parachuting is not for you"

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